Planning issues and site location suitability is the customers responsibility we offer general advice only
Please contact your local authority for information
Ireland's planning system was introduced on the 1 October 1964, when the Local Government (Planning and Development) Act, 1963 came into effect. The large body of planning legislation in the years since then, reflects the expansion of the statutory development control system to meet the demands arising from economic growth, rising public concern in the area of environmental control, a desire on the part of the public for a statutory and independent planning appeals system, and a growing European dimension arising from our membership of the European Union.
Ireland is also one of the few European countries that has an independent third party planning appeals system.
The Department publishes a series of leaflets on all aspects of the planning system and these are available free of charge from the Department or from planning authorities. They cover a whole range of issues including how to make a planning application, lodge an appeal, requirements for change of use, building extensions, in a word everything you need to know but didn't know who to ask.
Leaflets on the planning system are available in PDF format below.
PL1. A Guide to Planning Permission
PL2. Making a Planning Application
PL3. Commenting on a Planning Application
PL4. Building a House - The Planning Issues
PL5. Doing Work Around the Houses - The Planning Issues
PL6. Agriculture and Farm Development - The Planning Issues
PL7. Planning and the Business Person
PL8. The Development Plan
PL9. Environment Impact Assessment
PL10. Making a Planning Appeal
PL11. Guide to the Building Control System
PL12. Guide to Architectural Heritage
PL 13 Archaeology in the Planning Process
To download any of the above leaflets please copy the link into your browser
http://www.environ.ie/en/DevelopmentHousing/PlanningDevelopment/Planning/PlanningLeaflets/
Quality versus Price
All our buildings are inspected and quality controlled before shipping.
Our buildings are offered and priced according to specifications. Value, Budget and Promo offers are normally a standard value type window and door. Most doors and windows have rubber seals and the higher quality windows and doors are offered with a gasket seal.
In general like everything the more you pay the better specification quality building you get. A key component and also the most expensive part of any building are the windows and doors; if you want the highest grade then you must be prepared to pay for it.
If the building will be used frequently and the windows opened and closed frequently then it is worth specifying your building with the higher grade.
When selecting your building please consider what is important for your requirements. We can’t help you after your building has been purchased so select carefully before you confirm your order.
Our Warranty
Buildings with a broken or problem part will be repaired or replaced; you must contact us within 24 hours of delivery. Exception for glass, the windows and doors; must be checked carefully on delivery. The driver must be told before he leaves and our office informed straight away.
Once the building has been delivered and you have checked and inspected the parts the building will be deemed fit for purpose and you are accepting we have fulfilled our obligation of your order being completed.
We do not accept any liability for any damage caused by you or your contractors during the movement or self build.
When we install your building we give a 6 months warranty for workmanship.
This includes the build process and all materials used for the building.
This excludes any damage caused by adverse weather conditions; heavy rains, torrential rains, sustained periods of rain, floods, storms, heavy snowfall or extreme heat.
It is recommended that you have household insurance to cover for these situations.
Assembly Installation Tips
Base works
Pressure Treated Wood Base Frame
Custom made frame to fit exactly the building, allows for any undulations or slope.
This is a quick and cost effective solution without much disruption to your garden.
Wood Sleepers
For grounds that are very uneven and require digging out to get a level base.
Also where buildings need to be raised due to flooding or soggy ground.
Blocks
Blocks are an easy quick solution for uneven grounds or where building needs to be raised.
Blocks should be laid out in strip formation running in the same direction as the buildings base bearers.
Paving / Patio Slabs
General paving / patio slabs laid level with sand and cement if necessary.
Can be laid in strip formation with a DPC or membrane.
Concrete lintels
Custom made exclusively for us they have been developed to offer a quick cost effective solution that can be provided on day of install. Ground needs to be level, flat and firm. Lintels are normally laid in the opposite direction of the buildings base bearers, but can also be the same direction with a DPC membrane used.
Concrete Pad / Slab
Ideal for bigger buildings and when the ground is to uneven to work with a timber frame base structure.
Agree the placement before starting works. Allow for roof overhangs, access around the building when built. Level flat and square, raised just above ground level to allow for drainage.
Fixings Required
Roof Boards
25/30mm screws or nails to fix the roof boards to the roof joists. approximate about 200 pieces.
The tongue and groove roof boards should be tapped into place, do not force together, there should be some room for expansion.
Treat the roof boards especially the cut ends liberally with wood preserver.
Base Bearers
Base fixing can only be determined on the sub structure. Ideal would be 'Fischer fixers' for concrete or block.
Roof Tiles
Galvanised clout head nails. The roof tiles have self adhesive strip on the back but nails must be used as well.
Wall Boards
If screws for wood are required to force into place (normally if base is not perfectly level)
Good Quality Wood screws 120mm long. Drill down 50% through first log and take up 50% second log.
Floor and Decking
Screws 4x55mm
The floor inside should go in last. When laid the last piece will need to be cut. Leave a space around the entire floor for expansion.
Small screws or pins for the finishing pieces around the floor edging will be needed.
Installation
1. Base Wood
Place the treated (green or brown) base bearers (basement) evenly spaced. These can be secured to the ground, if a concrete pad use Fischer anchor through the wood into the concrete.
If the cabin is on wet or soft ground or there will be excess rain then we recommend using a membrane. Cut plastic strips or use a membrane roll and place along the top and bottom of the base bearers, this will help ensure no water transfer through the base bearers to the main body of the building. Do not place a big plastic sheet under the building this will stop drainage and keep the base bearers in sitting water; use a good quality breathable membrane that allows the water to drain through.
2. Wall Logs
Place first level of wall logs (x4), these are normally 2 half height wall logs and 2 full height sized wall logs. The first row of wall logs will sit directly onto the base bearers. On Some models there will be a first row wall log with a cut out for the door.
Screw the first level of wall logs into the base bearers, it is very important to check it is totally square and level. (If not square and level you will have problems later in the build)
Add the wall boards until you are at around 5ft and then add the window frames and door frames.
Only add screws to wall logs when necessary, if wall logs need manipulation to fit and sit properly then you can add a screw through the grooved section. Drill down 50% of the wall log and catch 50% of the wall log underneath. Only do this if the wall logs are twisted or bent, the weight of the building when completed will settle and move the wall logs into place.
3. Windows and Doors
Windows and doors should not be screwed directly into the wall logs. The window frames and the door frames; frames should be screwed together if in part form before fitting.
Expanding foam is the best way to fit a window or a door frame, add the foam around the frames to create a good seal. Let the windows and doors settle into place after a few weeks, only then add screws into each corner of the frame. This method may require adjustment seasonally.
Use a good quality silicone sealant and apply liberally around windows and doors inside and outside. Make sure the sealant is well applied and sealed into every edge and join to ensure a good seal.
4. Roof
Roof purlins, trusses roof sections will sometimes need manipulation to sit in place, try and avoid any cutting. Roof boards should be nailed into the roof purlins. Roof boards should be screwed or serrated nails into the purlins (roof beams), fix roof boards into every purlin to ensure a good fix; we recommend a minimum of 3 fixes per roof board (top, middle, bottom). The roof boards tongue and groove should not be forced tight, just light hand pushed together to allow for some expansion and contraction.
5. Roof Tiles
For best results add a roof membrane before the roof tiles. Roof tiles follow the tile diagram exactly as shown, making the first row the opposite way round and laying the next row directly on top the correct way around. Allow the first row to overhang by just over half an inch. Use a quality gutter sealant or flexible silicone to bead along the apex roof edge.
Click here >> the tile diagram .
6. Baulk Clamps
On the plan the baulk clamps (storm braces) go into the corners. Position these towards the top of the building almost to the top of the wall edge. The small hole put towards the top and screw through with a large screw or add a washer and screw tight into the wall board. The slotted hole (positioned towards the floor) you can put a large nut and bolt with washers or a large screw with washer and do not make very tight, just loose. This will allow the cabin to move but limits the total amount of movement.
7. Floor
The floor, screw or nail into place. Leave a small even gap all around the edges for expansion. The small skirting trim you can put around the floor to cover the gap.
8. Wood Treatment
Treat inside and out with good quality wood treatment, do not leave for more than 7 days untreated. Inside can be treated in a natural clear coat, paint windows and doors a few times to ensure a good seal.
Apply liberally wood treatment to all the exposed roof boards, especially the cut ends. Check and retreat the roof boards yearly.
We recommend an automatic humidity fan to be placed on the wall towards the top of the apex. They are approximately €/£60.00 to buy.
9. Silicone
A good quality silicone should be added around the windows and doors inside and out. Silicone should be used in the corners of the wall log joints inside and out, we also recommend using silicone along the top of the wall where it meets the roof on the inside.
10. Guttering
Add half sized guttering around the building. Ensure drainage is away from the building.
11. Decking
Decking place with a small gap to allow for expansion. (A coin space can work)
For technical help please email us: Contact us click here >>>
